JUNE 29, 2025
There was one last wedding event left, a “Poolside Burritos breakfast.” Many wedding guests were heading home today, so it was the last chance to see many of them. That included Jessica and Joey. It was somewhat bittersweet in that it was wonderful seeing them, but a little sad not being able to spend more time with them.
During breakfast Dan and I met some of Amy’s friends who were heading into the town of Todos Santos. We decided to join them. The town is popular with artists and known for its art galleries, and shops showcasing Mexican jewelry, crafts and clothing. It is considered one of Mexico’s 20 “magical towns.” They are designated magical because they possess historical, cultural, and architectural significance. I think they are also designated as such to attract tourists. Nothing wrong with that.
Todos Santos, originally named Santa Rosas de Todos Santos, was colonized in 1723 by Jesuit missionaries. The area was selected primarily because it had a reliable water supply. The town was almost abandoned by the end of the century because most of the natives had died from epidemics. It was reborn when it became a sugar cane center in the 1850s. However, when the water table dropped to almost nothing and sugar prices fell, the town once again became dormant. In 1981 water returned (considered a miracle). In addition, the construction of highways and the development of organic farming helped bring Todos Santos back to life.
The town has its charm with streets lined with shops, restaurants and plenty of places to stop for a coffee and ice cream. There were alleys to explore, which usually lead the way to more shops. Right at the corner where we were dropped off by our driver, was a lovely jewelry and gift store named Silver Dreams. I hesitated buying anything since we hadn’t been in any other shop, but it turned out to be one of the nicest shops in town. I splurged a bit and purchased a turtle necklace made from opals and silver, and a pair of silver/opal earrings.
It was fun exploring the town’s nooks and crannies. In the center of Todos Santos was the church known as the Mission Santa Rosa de las Palmas. It was built in the Colonial-style and had been reconstructed in 1747. Services were in session so we didn’t go inside. Its simplicity added to the building’s beauty.
Directly next to the church was the beautiful historic Hotel California built in 1950. Many think that this was the Hotel California mentioned in the famous Eagles song. The Hotel had encouraged this way of thinking by playing the Eagles music and selling Eagles merchandise. However, in 2017 the Eagles led by Don Henley placed a lawsuit against the Hotel to stop it from using the trademark. The case was settled out of court so it is still unknown whether or not the Hotel California served as an inspiration for the song.
Artwork was found throughout the town. The colorful “message tree” also known as the “wishing tree,” is a place where people tied colorful written wishes to the branches. Interesting sculptures graced many courtyards. I wish we had more time to explore Todos Santos, but our driver was waiting for us to return to Más Olas.
Dan and I enjoyed another dip in the pool before getting ready for our next activity, a mezcal tasting and casual dinner at El Refugio Mezcaleria in downtown Todos Santos. Just to give you an idea of some traditional Mexican dishes that go well beyond the typical Tex-Mex fare listed below are our choices for dinner this evening:
- Green Pozole, a traditional dish made with hominy corn and your choice of pork, chicken or mushrooms served in a broth with tomatillo, green chile, and fresh herbs.
- Lamb Azado, a tender lamb slow-cooked with potatoes, carrots, onions and a blend of aromatic spices.
- Red Mole, a rich and complex sauce made from dried chiles, spices, seeds and a hint of chocolate, served over tender chicken.
- Fresh fish for those seeking a simpler cuisine.
Mezcal is a distilled alcoholic beverage that is growing in popularity in the U.S. Like tequila, it is produced from agave plants and is known for it’s smoky flavor derived from roasting the agave hearts in earthen pits. Tequila is a type of mezcal, but is made specifically from blue agave that isn’t roasted. Mezcal is made from a variety of agave species found in different regions of Mexico. The guided tasting offered six ancestral mezcals. Neither Dan or I officially took part in the tasting, however, my niece Adria shared her samples with me. I was able to determine very quickly that I didn’t care for Mezcal’s strong smoky taste. Basic tequila for me.
The restaurant had a charming enclosed patio featuring a large tree at its center. This was to be the last night for the restaurant’s operation in Todos Santos. They were moving to La Paz, a city on the opposite side of the Baja Peninsula.
After an evening of wining and dining we headed back to Más Olas. We had an early departure time the next morning in order to catch our Volaris flight to Mexico City.
BY THE WAY WITH WENDY & DAN 